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Signs of fall - 26.10.03
Bus vs. metro - 20.10.03


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Signs of fall
SUNDAY, OCTOBER 26, 2003 - CHRISTOPHER DEWOLF


MONTREAL, 09.10.03 : PUMPKINS OUTSIDE MONT-ROYAL METRO


MONTREAL, 11.10.03 : SIDEWALK SALE ON ESPLANADE STREET


MONTREAL, 12.10.03 : THANKSGIVING AT THE JEAN-TALON MARKET


MONTREAL, 11.10.03 : WAVERLY AND ST-VIATEUR IN MILE END


MONTREAL, 14.10.03 : SKYLINE FROM MCTAVISH STREET


MONTREAL, 11.10.03 : SCHOOLBUS ON WAVERLY STREET


MONTREAL, 18.10.03 : PARC AVENUE NEAR ST-VIATEUR


MONTREAL, 18.10.03 : BEAUBIEN STREET IN THE PETITE PATRIE


MONTREAL, 19.10.03 : MOUNT ROYAL AS SEEN FROM FAIRMOUNT


MONTREAL, 19.10.03 : GROCERY STORE ON PARC AVENUE


MONTREAL, 19.10.03 : AUTUMNAL SIDESTREET IN OUTREMONT


MONTREAL, 19.10.03 : RUNNING BOY ON ST-VIATEUR, OUTREMONT


MONTREAL, 19.10.03 : OUTREMONT HALLOWEEN DECORATIONS


MONTREAL, 23.10.03 : VEGETABLES ON FAIRMOUNT STREET


MONTREAL, 23.10.03 : FALL DECORATIONS ON BERRI STREET


MONTREAL, 19.10.03 : INFLATABLE PUMPKINS ON PARC AVENUE

A few weeks ago, Mike Clarke of Hunkabutta, a photoblog about his life as a foreigner living in Tokyo, posted an entry about the signs of fall. In his usual amusing, anecdotal style, he mused about the small details that herald the arrival of autumn in Tokyo. For starters, the cicadas fall ignominiously from the trees, and "half the cans of coffee and tea in the vending machines on the streets are now switched to hot, instead of all cold." Warm oden stew stands emerge on street corners and, naturally, "it's time to turn on the seat-heating function on your ultra high tech toilet."

Alas, Canada boasts few toilets with heated seats, but Mike's post got me thinking about the signs of fall in Montreal. Most apparent is the sudden ubiquity of pumpkins. Great piles of them collect around the public markets, like bulbous orange snowdrifts. Pumpkin pies appear at the bakeries. Halloween decorations emerge on balconies and in store windows, kitschy collections of jack-o-lanterns, spiderwebs and witches. The days get colder and shorter: one day in late October you're walking home and realize the sun is setting at five o'clock, making that daily cup of café au lait seem all the more appealing. The Québécois penchant for frilly, colourful scarves reemerges after six months of hibernation. You take your knit sweaters off the hanger for the first time since March. Tying it all together is the turning of the leaves, which seem to change colour overnight, some bursting into rich red, brilliant yellow and, sometimes, dull, disappointing ochre.

I'll stop there. As you've probably noticed, I've decided to include a lot more photos than usual this week -- what better way to illustrate fall than by photographing it? Enjoy the autumn colours.

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Bus vs. metro
MONDAY, OCTOBER 20, 2003 - CHRISTOPHER DEWOLF


MONTREAL, 28.09.03 : RAINY DAY ON PARC AVENUE


MONTREAL, 28.09.03 : WINDOW ON ESPLANADE STREET


MONTREAL, 28.09.03 : ESPLANADE STREET


MONTREAL, 28.09.03 : BERNARD STREET, MILE END


MONTREAL, 28.09.03 : BERNARD STREET AT ESPLANADE


MONTREAL, 29.09.03 : VAN HORNE VIADUCT, MILE END


MONTREAL, 29.09.03 : VIEW FROM VAN HORNE VIADUCT


MONTREAL, 29.09.03 : ST. MICHAEL'S CHURCH AND MOUNT ROYAL


MONTREAL, 12.10.03 : CAFE ON PARC AVENUE


MONTREAL, 18.10.03 : BERRI STREET NEAR JARRY, VILLERAY


MONTREAL, 29.09.03 : TANGO LESSONS ON PARC AVENUE

I've been taking the bus a lot ever since I moved to Mile End. I pretty much have to, since the nearest metro stop is a good fifteen minute walk away; instead, the neighbourhood is served by several frequent bus lines. In fact, the more I take the bus, the more I find myself avoiding the metro as much as possible. It feels like such an effort to descend below ground, wait for a train and then struggle back above ground via rotten passageways and broken escalators. The odd thing, though, is that if it came down to a deathmatch between the bus and the metro, the metro would win handily. It is, after all, a lot speedier, usually more frequent and it involves a lot less exposure to elements, which is particularly important in the winter wonderland that is Montreal. The bus, on the other hand, has the reputation of being late, sluggish, smelly and full of the kinds of people your mom told you to avoid as a kid. Needless to say, popular opinion holds buses in low regard. In fact, there's even a phenomenon called rail bias: people who would otherwise eschew public transit are keen to hop onto a streetcar or a sleek subway, which explains the popularity of spiffy new light rail systems in cities like Dallas and St. Louis.

Still, there's something to be said for riding the bus. In the May 5th, 2003 issue of the New Yorker, writer Adam Gopnik waxed poetic about the joys of New York's seriously overlooked buses. Gopnik, a staff writer for the magazine and the author of From Paris to the Moon, returned to New York from five years in Paris only to discover that his beloved subway wasn't the same Dantesque pit it was when he left. In the 70s, he writes, the subway was "a rumbling, sleepless, snorting animal presence underfoot, more a god to be appeased and admired than a thing that had been mastered by its owners." When he returned to New York in 2000, the subway, "now graffiti free, with dully gleaming metal cars," was a lot less appealing: for starters, it had "recorded announcements, and for a while a picture of the station manager at every stop. It seemed obviously improved but somehow degraded, grimly utilitarian, intended to suggest the receding future vision of 'RoboCop': automatic voices encased in armor." That sublime mix of "feral thugs and killer nerds," grit and decay, had been ignominiously swept away in Rudy Giuliani's spiffy new New York. "And so," he writes, "the bus":

The bus I find humane, in several ways. There is, first of all, the non-confrontational and yet collaborative nature of the seating. You look over people’s shoulders, closely, and yet only rarely look directly at them, face to face, as you must on the subway. There is a hierarchy of seating on the bus, far more articulate than that of the subway. There are seats you must give up to handicapped people, seats you ought to give up to handicapped people if you have any decency at all, and seats—the bumpy, exhaust-scented row in the very back—that you never have to give up to anyone, if you’re willing to sit there. (...)

The bus also has order, order as we know it from the fading patriarchal family, visible order kept by an irritable chief. The driver has not only control over his world but the delight of the exercise of arbitrary authority, like that of a French bureaucrat. Bus riders learn that, if your MetroCard turns out to be short fifty cents, the driver will look at you with distaste, tell you to find change from fellow-passengers (surprisingly, to a subway rider, people dig into their purses cheerfully), and, if this doesn’t work, will wearily wave you on back.

I find the bus humane, too. It is one of the few intimate places in a city, situated somewhere between a sidewalk cafe and a square on a warm summer night. You watch people and they watch you; others watch the passing streets and still more talk amongst themselves. "It is uniquely possible to overhear conversations on the bus," Gopnik writes, and it's true: the metro is far too loud and oppressive for the kind of easygoing conversation that takes place on a bus. On the bus, your seatmates seem more accessible, even if you don't know them, and you tend to develop a sort of relationship with your fellow passengers. The drivers become familiar faces and you begin to  recognize people who get off at your stop. Above all, this sort of communal feel is the bus's biggest attraction. Where the metro feels like a big waiting room, with its silent downward stares and relentlessly boring, utterly predictable path, the bus feels like a big family car trip, right down to the parent at the wheel, Gopnik's patriarchal driver. Everyone is sharing a confined space with only a couple of exits, the old sardines in a tin can cliché. Whatever happens, you're all in it together.

―――

For once, the recent lack of updates wasn't due to laziness. Really. We were busy. (Honestly!) So, now that October is here, Colin Kent presents the latest featured photoessay: Dusk. Dusk, incidentally, is easily my favourite time of day. In the sunny months of summer, it means beautiful sunsets and warm, languourous light spilling over the city like hot butter. In the fall and winter, dusk is that ethereal time when the private and public spheres of the city connect, when the outside is still light, yet dark enough for the illuminated interiors of stores and apartments to shine clearly. Enjoy the photos, and don't forget that September's updates can be seen in the archives section.

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