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MARCH 2004 - Recent Posts
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Goodbye graffiti - 22.03.04
The Main - 09.03.04
Ethnoburbia - 02.03.04


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Goodbye graffiti
MONDAY, MARCH 22, 2004 - CHRISTOPHER DEWOLF


MONTREAL, 12.03.04 : STRIP CLUB AND MATERNITY STORE


MONTREAL, 07.03.04 : PORTUGUESE TILE IN MILE END


MONTREAL, 12.03.04 : BARBERSHOP ON AMHERST STREET


MONTREAL, 13.02.04 : QUEBEC FLAG ON RUE ST-CHRISTOPHE


MONTREAL, 21.02.04 : DÉPANNEUR IN THE PETITE PATRIE


MONTREAL, 16.02.04 : STREET CLOSED, ST-DENIS AT ST-JOSEPH


MONTREAL, 25.02.04 : VIEW FROM HIGHLIGHTS FESTIVAL TOWER


MONTREAL, 12.03.04 : LADIES ON STE-CATHERINE STREET


MONTREAL, 16.03.04 : SQUEEGEE KID, STE-CATHERINE AT PAPINEAU


MONTREAL, 27.02.04 : FEBRUARY HOCKEY IN JEANNE-MANCE PARK


MONTREAL, 20.03.04 : SPRING SNOWSTORM IN MILE END

I love graffiti. You can probably tell by the overrepresentation of murals and tags there are in my photoessays, although it helps that Montreal has a lot of graffiti to begin with. Unfortunately for casual graffiti enthusiasts like myself – and even more unfortunate for the people who actually make the stuff – graffiti is technically vandalism, a violation of somebody's private property, and goddamnit, if anything's holy in North America, it's private property. Graffiti is one example of what earnest, early-to-bed-early-to-rise policymakers like to call "quality of life crimes." Montreal, as usual, is fashionable late to the party; only last month the police announced, quite ominously, that it would target "anti-social behavior" such as spitting, illegal postering, "the disturbing presence of vagrants or beggars," squeegeeing, being homeless, ugly or non-conformist, etc.

It's nothing new. Former New York mayor Rudolph Giuliani was the first to target these kinds of minor infractions. Remember the campaigns to get the strip clubs out and Disney in, to stop graffiti and, mostly implausibly, to stop New Yorkers from jaywalking? The justification was that these kinds of petty crimes led to more heinous ones – you know, the old slippery slope theory: if you don't finish your asparagus and be a good little boy you'll end up a TV-stealing drug addict that nobody loves. Or something like that. On the surface, it kind of makes sense: if you allow people to jaywalk at will, cover walls with graffiti and spit with abandon, you end up encouraging a culture of disrespect for authority. But perhaps there is a deeper motive behind getting rid of such nuisances. In announcing their attack on the people that don't quite fit in (sorry, anti-social behavior), the Montreal police noted that their research concluded that quality of life infractions were Montrealers' number one crime concern. Getting rid of beggars and painting over tags produces an instantly visible effect, giving the appearance of doing something concrete to address citizens' concerns. Solving real crime, on the other hand, takes time and doesn't produce immediate results.

Even if attacking quality of life crimes makes the average person more comfortable, it doesn't actually make the city a safer place. In fact, it probably causes more damage than it's worth. Think of all the social tension that would result if police actively tried to push the homeless out of sight, as they did in New York, without making an effort to combat poverty. Other quality of life "crimes" might actually be beneficial for a city. A healthy scepticism of authority has got to make for a more interesting place. Graffiti, for its part, humanizes the city by turning blank walls into images that interact with passers-by. Ugly and ubiqutous tags – those hastily scrawled street names you see everywhere – are annoying, but in exchange for tolerating them you get some absolutely stunning works of art. It makes the city so much more dynamic, so much more lively. Isn't that what quality of life is all about?

―――

My friend Leonard Machler recently took a trip to London and did some wandering, photographing and very expensive eating. You can read his thoughts on the city at his funny and well-written blog. You can also see some of the atmospheric and nicely layered photos he took two galleries (one and two). Speaking of photos, this is as good a time as any to remind you of what will be appearing on Urbanphoto in the coming months. I'm currently working on Colin Kent's Havana photoessay, Dos días en La Habana, which will be online in April, as well as two collections of great Philadelphia photos that will appear later in the spring.

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The Main
TUESDAY, MARCH 9, 2004 - CHRISTOPHER DEWOLF


MONTREAL, 27.02.04 : CAFÉ ROMOLO, BERNARD STREET


MONTREAL, 25.02.04 : RUE DES ÉRABLES ON THE PLATEAU


MONTREAL, 28.02.04 : FIRST SIGNS OF SPRING ON ST-VIATEUR ST.


MONTREAL, 25.02.04 : MARCHÉ WONG, MONT-ROYAL AVENUE


MONTREAL, 08.03.04 : PLAYING THE KEYBOARD, PARC AVENUE


MONTREAL, 24.02.04 : ALLEY IN OLD MONTREAL


MONTREAL, 24.02.04 : BILLBOARDS, ST-URBAIN STREET


MONTREAL, 24.02.04 : SIGNAGE ON MCGILL STREET


MONTREAL, 24.02.04 : ST-PAUL STREET FROM MCGILL


MONTREAL, 26.02.04 : QUEEN MARY AT THE DÉCARIE, SNOWDON


MONTREAL, 27.02.04 : CAFÉ ON BERNARD STREET


MONTREAL, 08.03.04 : READING ON THE BALCONY, MILE END

Last week, poking through the shelves of the Mile End Library, I picked up a copy of Edward Hillel’s The Main: Portrait of a Neighbourhood (Key Porter Books, 1987). Inside, dozens of black-and-white photographs, most dating from the late 1970s and early 80s, document the neighbourhood around St-Laurent Boulevard, a street historically known as the Main. It’s a fantastic book, the photographs interspersed with bits of dialogue and interviews from the neighbourhood. What makes it especially interesting for me is that the streets Hillel prowled 30 years ago, camera in hand, are the same streets I walk and photograph every day.

The polyglot character of the Main takes centre stage in Hillel’s photos. In one instance, readers are introduced to William “Chicki” Gardner, political organizer for Harry Blank, once the Main’s representative in the Quebec National Assembly. In the background, we see one of Blank’s campaign posters, with the word “Vote” written in 11 languages. Historically, in a city that was historically divided by language, religion and ethnicity, the Main represented a sort of middle ground, a haven for those who didn’t fit in to one of the extremes: east or west, French or English, Catholic or Protestant. It seems fitting, then, that the Main was the epicentre of Montreal’s third solitude: the Jews.

The first Jewish immigrants arrived in cloistered little Montreal shortly after the British conquest of 1760. Montreal’s first Jewish congregation was established in 1768, but the community remained tiny throughout the nineteenth century. Change came with the great Eastern European migration at the turn of the century. Forced out of the shtetl by poverty and vicious pogroms, millions of Jews turned towards North America. The United States was the choice for most Jewish immigrants, but an increasing number settled for Canada. As Mordecai Richler noted in The Street: “Canada, from the beginning, was second-best. It made us nearly Americans.”

At the time, Montreal’s Jewish neighbourhood was centred around the corner of Dorchester (now René-Lévesque) and St-Laurent, the site of present-day Chinatown. (A smaller enclave of old-money Jews existed on Sherbrooke, University and McGill College streets, too.) As the ghetto grew, it climbed the Main towards Ontario, Prince-Arthur, Duluth, Mont-Royal and beyond. In 1901, only 6975 Jews lived in Montreal; by 1931, that number had rocketed to nearly 60,000. Eventually, the ghetto encompassed just about the entire part of the city around the Main, spreading westward into Outremont. Its size – it represented half of all non-English, non-French residents of Montreal – its geographic concentration and its unique position between the “two solitudes” made Jewish Montreal especially vibrant and tight-knit.

The strongest glue that bound the community together was the fierce desire to protect Yiddish culture. During the first half of the twentieth century, Montreal was easily the second-most important centre for Yiddish culture in North America (after, of course, New York). In 1907, Montreal’s first Yiddish daily, the Kanader Odler (Canadian Eagle), was launched by Hershel Wolofsky. It ended up surprising everyone with its success. The Odler provided Yiddish speakers with, for the first time, news about Montreal and Canada. Most importantly, however, it proved to be a sturdy backbone for Yiddish culture, supporting many Jewish cultural institutions and offering a reliable forum for Yiddish-language essayists, writers and poets. Montreal was a hub of Yiddish theatre and vaudeville, too; just about every major star graced the stage of the Monument National theatre at one point or another.

Eventually, however, the ghetto declined. The postwar generation spoke English, not Yiddish, and by the 1950s the most upwardly mobile Jews in the ghetto were ditching Outremont and Mile End for Snowdon, Côte St-Luc and the suburbs. In the 1970s, the Main’s Jews were replaced by Greek, Portuguese and Spanish immigrants. Later, Vietnamese refugees added to the mix. Refugees of another kind sought solace on the Main, too. In his 1988 novel, Des nouvelles d’Édouard, Michel Tremblay writes about the children of the Plateau Mont-Royal and their “progressive slide towards the Main…” Led by the transsexual Édouard, known as la duchesse, they drift inexorably towards the mushy middle ground of la Main, away from the more parochial parts of the city.

In a sense, though, the Main has now spread to all of Montreal. Old barriers have disappeared or have been blurred beyond recognition; the polyglot of cultures and languages can now be found clear across the island, in enclaves and neighbourhoods far from the cracked pavement of boulevard St-Laurent. Despite the recent influx of students, yuppies, bohos and South Americans, the Main doesn’t feel so much like Main Street anymore. The immigrant stew documented in Hillel’s book is more easily found in the streets of the Petite Patrie or Park Extension. So, what’s become of St-Laurent? Is it just another urban street, still interesting but not as central as it once was? Has the Main lost its relevance?

―――

A quick sidenote for Montreal readers: On Monday, March 16th, at 7pm, Memories of Mile End will be hosting a presentation, in French, on the proposed Parc Avenue tramway. The talk will be held, oddly enough, on the third floor of the Petro-Canada at Parc and Mont-Royal (4505 Parc). Tickets are $5; for more information, call 514 849 9543 or email milendoise@hotmail.com.

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Ethnoburbia
TUESDAY, MARCH 2, 2004 - CHRISTOPHER DEWOLF


MONTREAL, 17.02.04 : HASIDIC MEN CONFERRING, OUTREMONT


MONTREAL, 18.02.04 : DÉPANNEUR ON DE BULLION STREET


MONTREAL, 17.02.04 : HOCKEY KIDS ON AN OUTREMONT STREET


MONTREAL, 18.02.04 : STE-CATHERINE AND UNIVERSITY


MONTREAL, 18.02.04 : WAITING FOR THE BUS ON GUY


MONTREAL, 09.02.04 : ESPLANADE STREET NEAR ST-VIATEUR


MONTREAL, 09.02.04 : FAIRMOUNT STREET NEAR PARC AVENUE


MONTREAL, 17.02.04 : HYDRO WORKER IN OUTREMONT


MONTREAL, 18.02.04 : CLEANING THE WINDOWS ON GUY


MONTREAL, 18.02.04 : DOWNTOWN CONSTRUCTION WORKERS


MONTREAL, 20.02.04 : 1AM ON THE MAIN

The suburbs are fun to bash. They're ugly, cultureless hellholes, isolating and depressing. Dozens of films have been made lampooning the cookie-cutter sterility of the 'burbs: think of The Stepford Wives or Edward Scissorhands. However, what might have once been true about suburbia say, circa 1975 is not necessarily the case anymore. Tract homes and strip malls still spread out from the city like rancid butter, but take a closer look: in most big cities, those strip malls are probably filled with karaoke bars and spice shops, the tract homes occupied by Chinese and Indian families. Forget suburbia this is ethnoburbia. 

Last week I mentioned Bing Thom's intriguing new design for the Aberdeen Centre, a big Asian mall in the heart of Richmond, just south of Vancouver. Richmond, with its malls, cul-de-sacs and stubby stucco midrises, is a particularly good example of what the geographer Wei Li calls an "ethnoburb." Basically, an ethnoburb is a hybrid of a traditional ethnic enclave and a typical suburb. In a 1998 paper published the journal Urban Studies, Li uses Los Angeles' San Gabriel Valley as a model ethnoburb. While the dominant ethnic minority is Chinese, the valley is still a diverse place, with other Asians and Latinos. As in an enclave, people in the valley can shop at Chinese supermarkets, buy Chinese newspapers and chat with neighbours in their own dialect. Unlike an enclave, however, most residents of the San Gabriel ethnoburb are middle-class, white-collar homeowners. 

At least two Canadian suburbs fit Li's model perfectly: Richmond and Markham, north of Toronto. Together, they are among the first Canadian municipalities to be majority non-white; both have large Chinese communities but are still diverse places. Richmond has significant South Asian, Filipino and Japanese communities, while Markham's Chinese residents share the suburb with plenty of blacks and South Asians. Looking back through census data, it's easy to see the transformation of Richmond and Markham into ethnoburbs. In 1991, only 14 of Markham and 16 percent of Richmond was Chinese; today, those percentages have soared to 30 and 40 percent, respectively. A couple of years ago, there was a lot of hoopla in the press when newly released census data showed that Markham and Richmond were among the first Canadian municipalities to be majority non-white (or majority "visible minority," as Statistics Canada so delicately puts it). Ethnoburbs don't have to be Chinese, either; the label could probably be applied to Montreal's Ville Saint-Laurent, which has a big Arab community and smaller communities of Chinese, South Asians and blacks.

So what does this all mean? For one, some of the traditional distinctions between city and suburb are being erased. It used to be that immigrants first settled in the city before working their way up the socio-economic ladder and buying themselves a nice split-level ranch in the suburbia. That's how it worked for Montreal's big Eastern European Jewish community, for instance, which left the old ghetto in the 1950s for newer neighbourhoods and suburbs in the west of the city. Today, however, many new immigrants move directly into the suburbs. As Li notes, they exert the same word-of-mouth pull as traditional immigrant enclaves. Interestingly, ethnoburbs might represent a barrier in the American tradition of assimilation (and a boon to the ostensible Canadian policy of multiculturalism): since ethnoburbs are such insular yet affluent places, ethnic minorities have far more freedom of choice when it comes to assimilation.

―――

Quasi-academic musings aside, the new month brings a new featured photoessay. Matthew Loos once again graces us with some of his fabulous photos, turning the lens on his adopted hometown in Chicago in 38 Frames.

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