Morning Coffee: Bombay’s Zoroastrian Cafes
Zoroastrian carving, Bombay. Thanks to Toreajade.
Bombay’s Zoroastrian community emigrated from Iran about 1,000 years ago and brought their religion along with them–the oldest living monotheistic faith. They are also known as Parsis, because of their Persian origin. Since they cannot marry outside the community, they have retained a distinct identity and appearance. They worship in Bombay’s towers of silence. where sky burials are also performed–a practice that has come under scrutiny in recent years because of the declining vulture population.
Though Zoroastrians represent a mere 0.005% of India’s population, they have had a considerable impact on the country. In the West, the best known Parsi is probably Queen singer Freddy Mercury, who grew up in Bombay. Indians are more familiar with the Tata family, who seem to own everything–you start your day with a cup of TataTea, pay your TataPower bills, drive to work in your TataCar, and make calls on the TataSky network. In recent years, the Tatas have moved outside of India, acquiring Tetley tea, Ritz Carlton Hotels, and Jaguar.
Kyani Café, Bombay
Bombay’s Zoroastrian community is visible in the city because of the many Parsi cafes, also known as “Iranis.” They are to Bombay what old Jewish restaurants like Schwartz’s and Ben’s are (or were) to Montreal. Iranis are instantly recognizable by their circa-1950s Westernized appearance. The tables are usually covered with plaid or checkered napkins, and a variety of uninspiring baked goods, salted biscuits and crispy puffs grace the display windows. Some people come in for a mid-afternoon cup of chai and a buttered bun, and then linger for hours in the weird British-Raj-meets-Persia atmosphere.
Though the snacks are usually as stale as they look in most of the cafes, a full Parsi meal at a restaurant like Britannia & Co. is a real delight. The food is considerably milder than most Indian cuisine, with slight sweet undertones. I sampled the Berry Pulao, a rice dish sprinked with sweet berries imported from Iran. Sali Boti is a mutton dish in a mild brown gravy covered with fried julienned potatoes-it looks like upside-down-poutine but the taste is astounding. Top it all off with a cup of chai and custard cream, and you start wishing that Parsis would take their food outside Bombay and set up shop on this continent.
Britannia & Co., Bombay
For more pictures and descriptions of Parsi food, click here
Tags: Cafés, Morning Coffee, Mumbai
Bruce says:
your pic of Kyani is great, as you were obviously there during New Year last month (March)? – all the coloured streamers..
Note tho’ that they are called Irani cafes as they have always been operated by Iranis who migrated to Bombay late 1800s to 1950s. Tho’ they share the same religion as the Parsis, they are two distinct communities..
Cheers..
April 8th, 2008 at 8:30 am