A Day Around the Yamanote Line

JR Yamanote Line at Ueno Station

Tokyo doesn’t really have a single discernible center. Most of the metropolis’ characteristic clusters of lighted advertisements and overloaded sidewalks — Akihabara, Ikebukuro, Shinagawa, Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ueno, and (at Tokyo Station) Ginza — are strung together along the circular Yamanote Line, a Japan Railways loop that calls at the city’s busiest nodes. This necklace of light and activity effectively constitutes Tokyo’s peculiarly polycentric core.

Early morning, Akihabara

Midday in Ameyoko, Ueno

After a long enough period of time along the Yamanote’s circumference, its major stations’ division of labor becomes clear: like the hands on a clock, the city’s population is constantly rotating around the loop, but it’s always focused on at least one of its points. The youth carnivals of Shibuya and Akihabara (the latter is Japan’s capital of cosplay) don’t really get going until later in the afternoon; Ginza-adjacent Marunochi and Shiodome cater to the 9 to 5 crowd (hectic Shinjuku cares for them both on the clock and off). Weekends redistribute the city’s salarymen to parkside Ueno.

Tokyo’s crowds might occasionally defect to trendy neighborhoods or new developments off-piste, but none have the advantage of the Yamanote nodes — their one-seat connection to the action in any of the others.

Early afternoon, Ginza

PM politics, Shinjuku East

Evening commute, Shinjuku West

Late night shower, Shibuya
This entry was written by Christopher Szabla , posted on Sunday August 29 2010at 03:08 pm , filed under Asia Pacific, Society and Culture, Transportation and tagged , , , , . Bookmark the permalink . Post a comment below or leave a trackback: Trackback URL.

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